Days 20 and 21

First about today. I've reached my shelter by 2 p.m. after a fairly easy 7.2 miles. I'm staying here because 1) there is a good chance of thunderstorms this evening 2) this is a great shelter with the first privy on the trail in the Smoky Mt. National Park 3) there's a good water source that you don't have to walk a couple football fields steeply downhill to get to 4) And I've had two very hard days. 5) I want to cross Clingman's Dome (the highest point on the AT) in good weather tomorrow. The privy part is important because as unpleasant as they are they beat a shovel in the woods.

Now about yesterday: the good news is there were no bugs and the temperature was in the 60's. Nice temp for strenuous hiking. The bad news is it rained all day. The most miserable day yet on the trail. In addition the 12 miles were harder than they looked on the map. The trail is lower than the surrounding ground so the water runs down the trail in a steady stream. You could have collected drinking water if you were so inclined. It was very slick from the mud and wet rocks. I fell twice and was saved by my sticks many many times. Falling with a backpack is unpleasant. To make matters worse, that section of the AT is one of the few that allow horses on it. There were 6 ahead of me and not only did they forget their parade pooper scooper, but their hooves just destroy a trail. I was covered in mud. Water was swishing between my toes as I walked. It was hard to see the trail because my glasses were wet and fogged up.

The shelter last night was overflowing with hikers trying to get out of the rain and our gear was spread everywhere trying to get it dry (impossible). I had to change out of my wet clothes into dry clothes. You can't have modesty in this environment. I'm confident all eyes looked away honoring my privacy.
My hair was still wet when I got up this morning. I had to put back on all my wet clothes this morning. I'm trying to get them dry now. I'm very happy to be at this wonderful shelter with all the amenities. I felt good today. Strong.

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